When it comes to the conversation about inclusivity in the industry, things can easily get mixed up in an instant.

On September 22, Internet personality Lonnie Hammons took to his TikTok page to further his "Where Are The Boys?" series. According to the 26-year-old, the videos are meant to "call out" companies that "claim to be inclusive, but somehow the boys are still missing." To kick off the 53-second clip, Hammons simply said, "Oh Eadem, where are the boys?"
Not only did he claim to have reviewed the award-winning skincare brand's TikTok, Instagram, and website, but he also said he couldn't find any male representation. Before criticizing Eadem, Hammons shared his love for their products and acknowledged that the brand's existence was due to the industry overlooking women of color. However, he still took the time to put them on the spot. Needless to say, many weren't happy with his video, which he later took down and apologized for.
Founded by Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover, Eadem was created to leave the "beauty burden" behind. Lighter skin, straighter hair, and specific aesthetics contribute to this idea, which the brand targets in its products. Le Chouchou, Sunsuede, and Mami Wata are among the brand's best sellers, loved by women, men, and non-binary consumers globally.
In fact, Eadem has featured fans from diverse backgrounds, genders, and skin tones across campaigns, social posts, and advertisements. But Hammons does raise an interesting question that the beauty industry has tried to address for decades: Where are the boys? Well, they have been here in many ways, but in ways one might not have considered before.

According to Fortune Business Insights, the male grooming industry was valued at $64.63 billion last year, is projected to reach $67.70 billion this year, and is expected to reach $90.63 billion by 2034. Although one might assume this is solely fueled by haircuts and shaving products, skincare, makeup, and fragrance are crucial to men's self-care. From the latest luxury fragrance to a moisturizer that keeps your skin plump and fresh, men do engage in the industry. Now, it's more than just consumption.
Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Ancient Rome all had beauty traditions, such as black eyeliner, nail polish, and red cheek pigments, that men participated in. From copious amounts of white face powder and beauty marks to establish power in Europe to the English Macaronis' bold cosmetic stylings, masculinity embraced methods to improve one's appearance. That would drastically change.
As with most things, a cloud of toxic masculinity formed and halted the creative progress being made before the Victorian era. The Great Male Renunciation stood on the idea that any man who engaged with self-expression or cosmetics was seen as "vain" or "feminine." Thus, the mode of beauty for men shifted towards hair styling, discreet grooming, and occasional screen makeup seen in Hollywood.
Fast-forward to the '70s and '80s, stars like David Bowie began to experiment with theatrical makeup looks in his work, which helped subcultures commit to crossing concrete gender boundaries. Way Bandy, Kevyn Aucoin, and Scott Barnes came into the picture as makeup artists who worked on larger-than-life celebrities before becoming revolutionary talents in the fashion and beauty spaces.

In the 2000s, the rise of "guyliner" had names like Adam Lambert, Jared Leto, and Pete Wentz in a chokehold, and Houses like Saint Laurent took note of the rise of "makeup for men," thanks to metrosexuality, by launching the Touche Éclat pour Homme concealer in 2008. This phenomenon would flourish into a culture-redefining era throughout the 2010s, which had men using products like tinted lip balms, brow pencils, and sunscreens, leading to Houses like Chanel debuting its now-iconic Boy de Chanel line.
Bretman Rock and Manny Martinez, amongst countless other male beauty gurus, took their artistic skills online and redefined the way how men could be in the industry. Brands like CoverGirl and Maybelline took notice and had male faces represent their brands, something unheard of at the time. Names such as Mario Dedivanovic and Patrick Starrr have garnered such strong followings that they have launched their own beauty brands. As gay men in the beauty space, they both created products that were meant to cater to makeup lovers, regardless of gender, background, and sexuality.
With brands like Milk Makeup, Rhode, and MAC Cosmetics showcasing men in their campaigns, the conversation surrounding who should be included should be clear: Brands have the right to be for certain communities. Women spend more than $600 on beauty products annually and are the target audience for many brands, so they are often the faces of new launches. The beauty industry is not fronted by men; it is controlled by them in executive and ownership positions that women of all backgrounds have to work ten times harder for.
Even though this conversation about a lack of men in the beauty space holds some truth, inclusivity in the space doesn't necessarily mean that certain groups are included, especially when addressing beauty inequality. The art of makeup, skincare, and cosmetics is meant to bring people together, not divide people into a "them vs. us" situation. From runways and campaigns to the everyday guy that wants to feel more confident in his skin, the boys haven't been missing in the industry; they are simply finding ways to improve their appearance, get recommendations, and keep it moving.

Have The Boys Been Missing In The Beauty Space? No, They Haven't.

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