Jonny Johansson stretches the codes of New Romanticism and the American West through Acne Studios’ distinctly Swedish approach to design.

Under the chandeliers of a tightly-packed Parisian hall, the shrill voices of Adam &amp; The Ants over the speakers signal the commencement of Jonny Johansson’s latest Acne Studios collection.
Once again, Acne’s Spring/Summer runway draws on the spirit of American Western dress, recast through the brand’s distinctly Swedish approach to proportion, utility and restraint.

Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2027. Getty Images.

With his two previous <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion-week/acne-studios-spring-summer-2026-collection-runway-images-pfw">Spring/Summer collections</a>, Johansson modernized the ranch hand, and even within this new iteration, his Western looks and accessories are where his vision feels most assured. On the runway, he revisits this fascination with heeled cowboy boots, elongated hats and turquoise jewelry. Many of the pants melt into these boots, obscuring the figure and lending the silhouette an air of mystery. Beside the models, a tapestry bled onto the tile floor, an ideal ground for echoing the commanding heels.

Another thread of inspiration that appears across the looks is New Romanticism. Last year’s spiky hair cedes to curls, a styling choice that softens the collection. This romantic sensibility extends further into the collection’s brooches, which frame classical portraits.
Before this show, Johansson had yet to try his hand at the bubble hem, which has become ubiquitous across the industry over the past two years. The trend is tailor-made for Acne Studios, yet the interpretation was unconventional. Johansson renders the concept in chintzy florals, invoking the domestic textiles of another era; the dresses' asymmetrical hems and proportions resemble shifting cumulus clouds. Many of these styles also share the motif of backwardness seen throughout the collection, turning a familiar trend into something distinctly Acne.

In this non-American interpretation of the American frontier, some of these ideas become subsumed by the collection’s sea of competing reference points. Past collections were defined not simply by the strength of their individual pieces, but the discipline with which they were brought together: a refined color palette, cohesive hairstyling, and a controlled assortment of materials gave even their most polarizing elements a common language. This go-round, that cohesion wasn’t as discernible.
The Stockholm fashion house prides itself in its “<a href="https://www.acnestudios.com/us/en/about/about.html?srsltid=AU7gw4Wyjo8Tnj4XfdIrZ8GwNnEVH1KEUPewmWxUoO4raIWS5RxMbRna">eclectic use of materials</a>,” and the collection stays true to that ethos, readily maneuvering between reference points. For this Paris Fashion Week, Johansson flexes all of his muscles.&nbsp;

Acne Studios' Eclectic "Denim Hystoria" for Spring/Summer 2027

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