The Rebellious Spirit of Dior Spring/Summer 2024
Surrounded by an immersive installation titled "Not Her," Dior's latest collection pays tribute to les femmes rebelles o.
Women have always been at the center of the House of Dior—an understanding that Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri has carried on with every collection. Last February, she paid homage to the French muses Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf, and Juliette Gréco; the season before that, her creations were inspired by Catherine de Medici. For Dior's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, women were once again at the forefront of Chiuri's mind, particularly those who defied the status quo.
The show opened with a black lace maxi dress and ruffled overlay, setting the tone for the collection's emphasis on classic Parisian style, though Chiuri's interpretation embraces a healthy dose of utility. The collection captures the multifaceted nature of womanhood, whether that be inherent or developed in a patriarchal society. It's seen in the range of silhouettes, design techniques, and materials used throughout the presentation. Tailored and cinched suiting, long, pleated skirts, and Dior's signature use of lace all imbued the traditional nod to femininity.
Then came the juxtaposition, the "rebellious spirit" per se: biker jackets; business suiting styled with edgy biker boots; oxidized trench coats that looked burned at the hem; deconstructed button-downs revealing bare shoulders; denim garments presented in an almost dirt-washed fashion; and lacy, knitted finale dresses conveying a witchy feel—a fitting reference to the Salem witch trials. All design choices that cheekily skirt the idea of "what should be."
Throughout the show, flashing on the walls surrounding the space were provocative messages challenging the stereotypical narratives about womanhood and feminity. Such messages included: "I am not only a mother, wife, daughter. I am a woman," "I don't belong to anyone else. I always make a phone call to myself," and "Save your marriage. Iron properly." Keeping in line with Chiuri's tradition of celebrating artistry, she collaborated with artist Elena Bellantoni for the gripping installation, titled "Not Her."
As a brand that never fails to attract major star power, sitting front row were celebrities such as Jenna Ortega, Robert Pattinson, Rosalía, Anya Taylor-Joy, Blackpink's Jisoo, and Charlize Theron.