For Spring/Summer 2027, Simone Rocha explores the paradoxes of love, vulnerability and desire in a collection where romance becomes armor, surrender and a gesture of freedom.

“I’m trying to love you.” The confession opens Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented at London’s Old Bailey. Rocha draws inspiration from Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ, a long-lost masterpiece later rediscovered in Dublin. She carries its deep reds, blacks, and petrol blues into the collection, along with the idea of finding “the most beautiful thing in an unexpected place.” The result is a vision of romance steeped in gothic darkness.
This season, clothing acts as both armor and veil, protecting, concealing, and revealing the body at once. Sheer layers and fluid fabrics trace the figure without fully exposing it. Tulle dresses, nylon slips, silk boudoir tops, and lingerie-inspired silhouettes meet sturdy canvas parkas, bomber jackets, structured blazers, and plaid vests. Even Rocha’s utilitarian pieces carry a sense of delicacy: pearls cover parkas, sculptural roses adorn collars, and romantic embellishments transform otherwise functional garments.

The rose emerges as the season’s defining motif. It is embroidered onto tulle, placed along necklines and waists, printed on red micro-shorts, and sculpted in leather around the décolletage. Across the collection, it follows each silhouette like a declaration of love. Cocoon-like hoods reinforce the idea of protection, while an organic white dress recalls Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic 1965 wedding gown. Rocha’s vision of femininity is never merely delicate; it is romantic, sensual, and menacing.
The designer also revisits her signature codes, including powder-pink silk, lace, crinolines, structured skirts, ballooning volumes, and sweeping trains. This season, however, she gives them a sense of ease. A baby-pink dress is paired with a chunky gray sweater, a ball gown meets a menswear-inspired shirt, and a rosette-covered bomber jacket is layered over a lingerie silhouette.

Among the most striking pieces, the micro-shorts exude a more direct sensuality. Printed with roses, paired with oversized tops, or crafted from black leather with dramatic straps, they lend the collection a more contemporary feel. The shoes extend this interplay between innocence and transgression: ballet flats, plexiglass kitten heels, and PVC wedges create a kind of gothic Cinderella, while metal bracelets set with crystals transform a simple gesture—rolling up shirt sleeves—into a precious detail.
Everything, even the beauty itself, contributes to this tension. Eyebrows adorned with precious details, rosy complexions, velvety red lips, and hair, whether combed or delicately draped, elongate the silhouettes. The models advance clutching shawls, bags, and jackets, as if trying to hold onto something that is slipping away.&nbsp;

Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027. Courtesy of Simone Rocha.

Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection Finds Romance in the Darkness

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Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection Finds Romance in the Darkness

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