Fashion

A Brief History of the Tank Top: From its Origins to New Interpretations

How was the tank top born? Gone from a piece of underwear to a full-fledged piece of clothing — the tank top codified fashion.

models in tank top history
All photos via Getty Images.

Today we find it on the catwalks of luxury fashion houses, but the tank top, also known as the undershirt, has an interesting history that dates back several centuries. Originally it was used as a petticoat or underwear and was used predominantly by workers who carried out physically demanding activities and jobs or who practiced sports.

A garment similar to a shirt, with a wide neckline and no sleeves, the name "Italian style" derives from having been used for years by athletes who practiced rowing, the canottieri to be precise, but legend has it that the original invention is attributed to the French nobleman Jean Des Fauches (who lived in the 16th century) for ripping the collar and sleeves of a shirt after a moment of anger.

group of men rowing in tank tops history
The Cambridge crew in training for the Oxford-Cambridge University Boat Race on the River Thames in London, UK, 30th March 1974. (Getty Images)

Today the tank top is worn by men and women - with slight distinctions in design in terms of wearability. It's a garment that assumes a protective purpose, which over the years has acquired prominent positions with different meanings until it becomes a real item of clothing and not only with an intimate function. Throughout the twentieth century, the undershirt has always kept up with the customs of the time, becoming more and more of a fashion staple. In the 1950s and 1960s, it became a key element of informal menswear, often paired with jeans, shirts, and leather jackets; well-known celebrities such as James Dean and Marlon Brando recreated casual looks with a sensual touch.

james dean history of tank top
James Dean and Marlon Brando in Los Angeles, California, 1954. (Photo via Getty Images)

Having cleared its original use as an item of underwear, the undershirt has invaded the wardrobe of all men and women without age limits. It's a versatile garment that can be used as an under jacket, sports garment, or simply taken individually as a light summer t-shirt. Its versatility and essentiality have guaranteed it a prominent place in the world of fashion, confirming it as a timeless classic of the wardrobe.

Over the years, designers and creative directors have continued to propose their idea of ​​the tank top with interpretations that reflect the identity of the brand: from the ultra-deconstructed version by Rick Owens, the trompe l'oeil one by Martin Margiela, the minimalist and distinctive proposals by Helmut Lang, Prada, and Bottega Veneta, up to the super sexy one by Dsquared2.

model in black pants and white tank top history
Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 1999.
model in green pants sequin tank top history
Dsquared2 Spring/Summer 2024.
model in nude tank top history
Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2007.
Kate Moss in flannel, jeans, white tank top history
model in white tank top history
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2023.
Kaia Gerber in white tank top history
Prada Fall/Winter 2022.
model in black pants and white tank top history
Rick Owens Men's Spring/Summer 2023.

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