Fashion

Exploring Military Style's Subtle Resurgence in Fashion

Embrace timeless military style with double-breasted trench coats, sharp tailoring, and new neutrals like olive green and chocolate. 

Jacket, skirt, and scarf HERMÈS
Jacket, skirt, and scarf HERMÈS

Photography PIERRE CROSBY

Styled by DIONE DAVIS

The latest sartorial creations prove that falling in line with the season’s trends doesn’t mean relinquishing authority. Instead, they can empower the wearer.

Designers put an elegant twist on utilitarian military style that is steeped in irreverence and strength, which commands the awareness of everyone on the street despite its camouflage'inspired color scheme. Precise tailoring, structured sensibility, clean lines, and functional details such as welt pockets, tonal hardware, and utility straps were a unifying thread among brands like Hermès, Saint Laurent, and Tom Ford. Timeless essentials like durable trench coats and stretchy maxi skirts were made prominent through the manipulation of inviting textiles, breathtaking techniques, and sophisticated earthy tones. 

The ruggedness of martial-inspired attire was steadied with uncanny softness with silhouettes that caress the body while appearing primed to step onto the frontlines of the day’s toughest battles. Hermès, Saint Laurent, and David Koma leaned into their love for menswear-influenced fashion, creating exaggerated and heavy-duty jackets with wide cap sleeves. They transgress the parameters of the conservatism and tautness of military style’s roots, pairing the chic statement piece with breathable skirts or mini dresses–all of which are elevated by their delightful visual palette of cedar brown, army green, and copper. Continuing the concept of laid-back tailoring, Fforme and Loro Piana reawakened classic puffer jackets and trench coats, respectively, embellishing the styles with fuller hems, oversized pockets, and raglan sleeves. 

Brands also injected the aesthetic with modular glamour. Fendi incorporated a coffee brown hue into a leather midi dress, enhanced by scrunched detailing and an elongated shape. Meanwhile, Akris elevated the practical pantsuit by incorporating a velvet finish and fluid draping that caresses the body and reinforces the garments’ timelessness. Sleek and pointy Manolo Blahnik pumps add a bit of edge to this decadent ensemble. Additionally, versatile outerwear characterized by a classic belt and reliable pockets was made more luxurious by Tom Ford with textured shearling and a decadent honey beige shade. 

Below, see the latest sophisticated military style pieces that don’t sacrifice comfort and will inspire you to take on the world. 

FROM LEFT--ANNIBELIS: Jacket, top, skirt, and shoes FFORME Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LUANA: Coat, sweater, pants, hat, and shoes LORO PIANA Socks STYLIST’S OWN
FROM LEFT--ANNIBELIS: Jacket, top, skirt, and shoes FFORME Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LUANA: Coat, sweater, pants, hat, and shoes LORO PIANA Socks STYLIST’S OWN
Dress FENDI Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Bracelet TIFFANY & CO. Hat, gloves, tights, and shoes STYLIST’S OWN
Dress FENDI Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Bracelet TIFFANY & CO. Hat, gloves, tights, and shoes STYLIST’S OWN
Dress BOTTEGA VENETA Earrings CARTIER
Dress BOTTEGA VENETA Earrings CARTIER
Jacket, top, and pants AKRIS Shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK
Jacket, top, and pants AKRIS Shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK
Coat, tights, and shoes FERRAGAMO Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Coat, tights, and shoes FERRAGAMO Earrings VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

MODELS: Annibelis Baez FORD MODELS Luana Del Valle NEW YORK MODELS Tali Bulycheva THE SOCIETY CASTING: Tasha Tongpreecha
HAIR: Chika MAKEUP: Megan Kelly CREATIVE CONSULTANT: Mariana Suplicy PHOTO ASSISTANT: Brooks Foust STYLING ASSISTANT: Elle Dawson

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