How Ukrainian Designers Are Responding to a Military Invasion
Designers and models are speaking out against brutal attacks and using fashion to give back
While European fashion week continues, many Ukrainian designers shared their experiences and trauma with their public platforms to raise awareness for the ongoing conflict. On Wednesday, February 23rd, Ukrainians woke up to a series of sirens indicating missile attacks in the capital city of Kyiv and around the Russian borders.
Throughout Milan Fashion Week, people have been taking advantage of media attention outside of shows to spread awareness and protest the war, wearing the colors of the Ukrainian flag and holding signs that condemn Russian President Vladimir Putin. Models in various shows have also been using their platforms to give back. Argentinian model and Versace muse Micaela Argañaraz urged people in the industry to speak up and donate: “I have to say it feels weird walking fashion shows knowing there’s a war happening in the same continent.” Argañaraz has announced that she is donating a portion of her earnings from fashion week to Ukrainian organizations, starting a domino effect, with Kaia Gerber and others making the same pledge.
Bella Hadid, who frequently speaks up on behalf of Palestinians due to her family background, also shared that mental health check-ins are necessary during this time. “It’s incredibly odd to be walking in fashion shows, especially at a time like this. Please make sure to ask your Ukrainian AND Russian friends if they are okay,” the model shared on Instagram stories. “Whether emotionally, mentally, or just a hug. If you feel hopeless, the time is now to show up and remind the people around you that are struggling that you care and you are there.”
As the Russian military invasion enters its fifth day, many Ukrainian designers are using their brands and platforms to raise money and resources for those currently fighting the occupation and refugees crossing European borders to safety.
Bevza
Svitlana Bevza, the 39-year-old designer, owner, and creative director of Bevza, and one of the leading Ukrainian designers in the world, has, like many others, been sheltering in Kyiv for the past week. During the closing of her Fall/Winter 2022 show on February 14th at New York Fashion Week, the designer projected the Ukrainian flag in solidarity with her home country. The mother of two then returned to Kyiv to be with her husband right when tragedy struck.
“I woke up around 5 a.m. I heard explosions, like once every minute for 20 minutes,” Bevza shared. “The next big explosion was much louder. It was during the daytime. My daughter was sleeping, and I grabbed her immediately from her bed.” Bevza, known for her modern and delicate approach to incorporating ethnic and cultural aspects in her work, explained that just a few weeks ago, she was contemplating what the worst-case scenario of Russia attacking Ukraine would be. “I can’t tell you that I feel safe now,” she wrote. “There are people who are leaving for Lviv and to western Ukraine, but I am not sure that it is super safe to drive on the road. My family is here. My kids are here. We made the decision to stay here.”
The brand has been very active on Instagram using their slogan “we are all in the same boat.” A picture of two yellow and blue boat bags was posted with the caption “The seas submit themselves only to the BRAVE” and another post-reading, "STOP WAR IN OUR BELOVED UKRAINE! WORLD, UNITE AGAINST PUTIN!"
At the moment, Bevza’s website states that they cannot ship out deliveries due to the invasion but that they hope to get back to work as soon as they can.
Vita Kin
Vita Kin, the 52-year-old fashion designer and founder of the Vita Kin brand, was initially inspired by the vyshyvanka. This traditional Ukrainian embroidered white blouse is seen in different variations throughout Kin’s work. The Kyiv-based brand is dedicated to showing the beauty of Ukrainian heritage, with folk patterns present in almost every piece. Yesterday, Kin shared her wishes with the international community in an Instagram message. “Dear friends, partners, followers from all around the world… We are bravely fighting for our freedom and for freedom in the entire world,” she writes. “Many are asking how they can help. I ask you: give us your attention and energy in social media. Ukrainians are fighting for all of you. Everyone who is posting fashion, travel, food, animals… Please be with us. Inspire us and goodwill triumph! Your Vita Kin and 40 million Ukrainians.”
Anna October
Anna October, founder of the ethical womenswear brand founded in the Ukrainian city of Odesa, has shared a similar tale of trauma and fear surrounding the war. Like many other brands based in the country, Anna October has halted all deliveries. All collections from the brand use local techniques and are exclusively manufactured in Ukraine. October has previously stated that she does not follow trends because “her main inspiration is the way she feels and perceives feminine beauty and visual aesthetics.” Three days ago, the designer shared an emotional message on her Instagram platform. “Yesterday was the hardest day in my life when the war started in my country. I woke up from the bomb shots. I feel a deep pain for my nation, my family and friends,” she shared. “I built a brand in Ukraine, and I always wanted to create, to develop ideas that will make people’s lives more beautiful, I wanted to be useful for others. I want nothing but just be able to live and work in my country. I ask you for help, to spread the world, to protest, to help block SWIFT for Russia, to close the air, to stop the war!”
DressX
This unique brand founded by Ukrainian designers in 2020 uses digital clothing to reduce textile waste. With hundreds of brands to choose from, garments are not tangible, but computer technology and 3D software make it possible for you to “wear” the pieces. Along with co-founder Natalia Modenova, Daria Shapovalova, the creator of the innovative brand and so-called “Queen Bee” of Kyiv Fashion, has been using her platform to raise money for the Ukrainian armed forces.
In the past week, Shapovalova and Modenova used their digital clothes as fundraisers with their unique collection “Support Ukraine.” “We know it’s hard to understand where and how to effectively donate money. So with this collection (not for dressing, only for charity), we want to share our commitment for non-violence and to help our community to donate money,” the brand shared on Instagram. All proceeds from the collection will be donated directly to the Ministry of Defense of Ukraine and other charities based in Ukraine. Within 12 hours of the campaign, the brand raised over 200,000 UAH ($6,600).
The brand has also issued statements on their personal experiences thus far, writing: “Some of our team members and their families are currently in Ukraine. We are worried for our friends and for all Ukrainians. Peace is our biggest virtue and the goal of humanity is to unite when someone needs help. Help companies from Ukraine, help your friends in Ukraine, or just share your disagreement with the current situation. The power of the community can do miracles. Let’s unite and do these miracles together!” DressX has also shared that the brand “promotes creativity, fashion, and future. It’s not our war, and we truly believe that any country should be affected by any sort of conflict, as peace is our biggest virtue.”