Gabriela Hearst Bids Adieu for Chloé Spring/Summer 2024
For her last Chloé show, Gabriela Hearst comes full circle, addressing her final solution to climate activism — consciousness.
Presenting her farewell collection before officially stepping down as creative director, Gabriela Hearst did not hold back for the Chloé Spring/Summer 2024 show. First, there was the location, an outside presentation with clear skies and a calming view of the Seine River. Then, there were the clothes—back-to-back looks of impeccably sculpted garments that celebrate Hearst's journey at the French House.
Staying aligned with Chloé's commitment to sustainability—under Hearst's leadership it became the first luxury fashion label to achieve the B Corp Certification in 2021—for the past three collections, the brand focused on a specific solution to climate activism: Regeneration (Fall/Winter 2022), Clean Energy (Spring/Summer 2023), and Female Leadership (Fall/Winter 2023). For the final solution, this season focused on consciousness.
"If we look closely, there are sprigs of positive news all around that can spark a blossoming of essential ideas, and where better to look than the remarkable engineering of plants and flowers? These crucial oxygenators that we depend on are a radiant representation of life itself," the show notes read.
The theme of consciousness was encapsulated by finding inspiration from flowers (a source that has inspired many designers this season). The reference, however, is found not through the traditional floral print—in fact, the entire lineup was devoid of botanical prints of any kind—but through the structures and silhouettes. The geometric shape of flowers informs the designs, as the curved seam work, balloon sleeves, and circular cutouts mirror floral such as the calla lily and orchids.
Focusing on every aspect of the flower, from the petal to the stem, further interpretations are found: "A white strapless ottoman knit dress unravels into strands of sequins and wool fringing resembling roots; a sleeveless turtleneck dress is adorned with thousands of shimmering bugle beads reminiscent of stamens," per the show notes.
In its totality, the collection stays true to quintessential Chloé, embodied by high savoir-faire and free-spirited femininity. While it may be the end of an era for the Maison—as Hearst danced down the runway during the finale—the Spring/Summer 2024 collection also offers a solid foundation for whoever is chosen to succeed Hearst.