Fashion Week

Peter Do Makes His Helmut Lang Debut For Spring/Summer 2024

One of the most anticipated shows on the fashion calendar this season, Peter Do showcases his vision for Helmut Lang with his debut collection as the new creative director.

model in white top and skirt with black boots
All photos courtesy of Helmut Lang.

Peter Do had something to prove this Spring/Summer 2024 season. After the young designer was named the new creative director of Helmut Lang earlier this year, his collection immediately became the most anticipated on the New York Fashion Week calendar, with all eyes on him and seeing what vision he has in store for the luxury label. 

While soft-spoken and somewhat camera shy, Do knows how to make buzzy clothes, as proven by the garments from his eponymous brand that he founded in 2018. Driven by minimalism in an innovative fashion, his approach to design is inherently complementary to the Helmut Lang brand, further proving why his appointment as creative director is a perfect match.

It’s certainly no easy feat helming a brand like Helmut Lang, a label that has an impenetrable fashion legacy that still remains influential to this day. Add on top of that Do’s reputation of being seen as a fashion prodigy, someone who has garnered the attention of the upper echelon in the industry in a relatively quick matter of time, and you can understand the pressure Do was working up against.

Titled “Born to Go,” for his debut presentation, the collection was an ode to the past and a love letter to New York. References to the original designs of Helmut Lang were explored such as the fuschia color palette, the '90s minimalist silhouettes, and the graphic prints. But hints of Do's point of view can be seen through his clear catering to New Yorkers, such as the all-black attire (New York's unofficial uniform color), the swatches of yellow reminiscent of taxi cabs, and the harness-like straps similar to that of the seatbelts in said taxis.

A debut collection is never easy, even more so when you are held to such high expectations. It was clear that Do's focus was on preserving Lang's legacy and keeping the garments commercial and wearable rather than creating a spectacle. Only time will tell where Do's distinctive viewpoint will fit into the brand, though, based on his first run, it's something we look forward to watching.

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