The Runway Goes High-Tech at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022

Kim Jones got Milan Fashion Week started with Fendi in a softly lit hall of mirrors. Models traipsed down the runway in fringed garments, eclectic patterns, and many more nods to the swanky disco era. “Our woman has let loose a bit – she’s going out, dressing up. We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now," said Jones in a statement. Though they're far off in Milan, the aesthetic of Fendi's spring collection nods to the Studio 54 days of New York City, a fun-loving and daring time for fashion addicts.

It's been 40 years since Emporio Armani first opened its doors in Milan. After the runway show that marked this celebration, Giorgio Armani himself came out to bow alongside his niece Silvana Armani. Though Giorgio's time as head of the company may be nearing its end (he has previously alluded to such), his influence still reigns in the creative direction of the brand. Androgynous tailoring and athletic influences dominated the runway in various shades of blue, red, and green.

It's no secret that kids these days are obsessed with the return of the Y2K aesthetic. Cutesy, nouveau-digital outfits cover the TikTok landscape and are now popping up on the runway as well. Blumarine has successfully branded itself as the primo supplier of Y2K goods, with a fine mix of butterfly tops, ruffled blouses, and barely-there mini skirts. The looks were styled, in true 2000s fashion, with oversized sunglasses and baguette purses. 

Maison Margiela knows how to put together an unexpected item. For its MM6 line, the house took the trending checkerboard print and pushed it to its absolute extremes. One model walked in a top shaped like a chessboard, others wore head-to-toe red, checkerboard separates. On the runway were balloons, furry luggage, and a spider web-style tunic. One cohesive element: models were adorned with ruffled collars à 16th-century royals. Though they may seem unusual, the items will no doubt infiltrate street style aesthetics, remixed and reworn in exciting new ways.

The emergence of livestreamed and digital shows has given creatives the chance to use technology in new, innovative ways. For its spring collection, Prada decided to have two separate, simultaneous shows in Milan and Shanghai. As the models walked, a maze of screens allowed attendees to see their counterparts on the other end of the globe. The runway featured skinny trains on tight mini skirts, oversized leather jackets, and a number of lace-up graphic tees. 

Dua Lipa opened the Versace runway in a black blazer and skirt set held together by neon safety pins. She also closed for the brand in a pink metal mesh dress and bright green eyeshadow. The show was soundtracked by a medley of her hits, all taken from her Future Nostalgia album. Also appearing on the runway were Naomi Campbell, Gigi Hadid, and Madonna's daughter Lourdes Leon. In the end, Donatella Versace herself came out, arm in arm with Dua Lipa, to give her final bow.

The team behind Sunnei, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, have embraced technology in both their business and aesthetic. The eco-minded brand has set up systems of production aimed at lowering overproduction waste and catering directly to their consumers online. For their spring showing, the designers paid homage to their small but mighty team by animating and dressing them in their most recent collection. Everyone on the staff, from the accountant to the receptionist, was digitally rendered and fashioned in the latest installment of the Canvas project. 

Typically, at a runway show, it's the models wearing custom garments, not the audience. For its latest offering, Marni decided to shake things up by designing outfits for everyone in attendance. In the days preceding the show, the brand conducted fittings for hundreds, and handpainted, upcycled cotton separates. The striped motif carried into the runway pieces, which came in a variety of blues and oranges. The resulting show bridged a gap between audience and performers, usually as wide as an ocean.

Fendi and Versace have come together to exemplify the heights of Italian fashion. Fendi by Versace and Versace by Fendi showed during MFW on the bodies of just about every supermodel currently working, alongside the brands' two regular spring offerings. Kim Jones' vision of Versace was inspired by the late '90s, an iconic era for the gilded brand. Donatella Versace's recreation of Fendi incorporated her more punk rock sensibilities, with flashes of metal, safety pins, and touches of lace.