Willy Chavarria Champions Americana—and a New Adidas Collaboration— For Spring/Summer 2025

Against the backdrop of a massive American flag, models strode down the runway in a cavernous Wall Street building as the sounds of a YahritzaYSuEscencia cover of Juan Gabriel filled the room. In pieces that presented as utilitarian workwear and sophisticated tailored attire alike, the designer's Chicano roots had an overt presence, offering a unique look at Willy Chavarria's take on Americana. 

In each and every collection, Chavarria takes the contemporary fashion industry to task—rather than creating pieces that exist to appeal to buyers, he imbues his designs with humanity, and for the label's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, he wove in visual narratives of the integral role that immigrants have played in the shaping of the United States, hence the show's short, but telling name, "América." 

In pieces that presented as reimagined workwear, the uniform inspiration was plain to see through monochromatic color palettes, oversized jackets, and thick, durable canvas materials. Keys were spotted attached to the belt loops of the micro shorts and high-waisted chino trousers alike that made up these uniformed looks, proving an unconventional, but thought-provoking accessory. Contrasting against these looks were jackets featuring puffed-out sleeves, floor-length ruffled—and slightly retro-inspired—frocks, and cropped skirts.

In November 2023, Chavarria was named Menswear Designer of The Year at the CFDA Awards, and the visionary, groundbreaking design philosophy that snagged him the award was in full force within the Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2025 collection. “I think the recognition I got was for the message behind my work and the way that I integrate humanity into my work,” he told L'OFFICIEL in an April 2024 interview. “That separated me from a lot of what we see going on in fashion, where it's chasing the next big moment. Everybody’s chasing everything; it’s a big kerfuffle.” While to longtime fans of the label and distant onlookers alike, there's no pretense of Chavarria taking on the role of a follower when it comes to fashion, the label's latest collection made his goals as a designer clearer than ever. 

Partway through the unveiling of the collection, models strode out clad in brand-new Adidas Originals x Willy Chavarria pieces, ranging from classic tracksuits to oversized jerseys to reimagined Adidas track jackets, complete with cropped silhouettes and balloon sleeves. The entirety of the Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2025 runway presentation saw a myriad of models who embodied the designer's commitment to portraying a full, inclusive range of people, but audience members were equally shocked and delighted to see American track runner—and most recently, bronze Olympic medallist—Noah Lyles closing the Adidas subsection of the show.

“If I'm going to do my own brand, I am going to do something that gives back and makes me feel fulfilled," Chavarria told L'OFFICIEL in the same interview ahead of last season's show. After the debut of the designer's Spring/Summer collection, where audience members saw Chavarria passing out stickers emblazoned with the words 'Willy Says Vote,' his core mission feels more alive than ever.