André Leon Talley's Legacy of Black Representation in Fashion
On his birthday, L'OFFICIEL remembers the late André Leon Talley, a revered figure in the fashion industry for his historic triumphs and dedication to inclusivity in the editorial space.
Earlier this year, the fashion industry lost a pioneer, former Vogue Creative Director and style icon André Leon Talley who passed away at 73 at his home in White Plains, NY. Talley was a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. In honor of what would have been his 74th birthday, L'OFFICIEL looks back on his legacy of creating space in the fashion world for people of color.
As a queer, Black man he endured homophobia and racism throughout his life but instead of succumbing to hatred, he rose above it and became one of the most well-known names in the industry. In 1978, Talley became the Paris Bureau Chief of Women’s Wear Daily. He made history as the first Black, queer Creative Director at Vogue in 1988 and with this honorable title, Talley sought to use his position to represent the Black community. He began using models of darker skin complexions, like in the 1996 Vanity Fair spread “Scarlett ’n the Hood” starring Naomi Campbell.
But Talley did not just stop at the models. He also featured underrepresented Black designers in his Vogue "StyleFax" column, shedding light on great Black designers of the late ‘90s like Kevan Hall, Stephen Burrows, and Willi Smith. He often used garments he felt represented the African diaspora in much of his work as well. Talley was ultimately working for more diverse representation within an industry that was not always willing to deviate from its long-held norms.
Talley was the positive, Black representation the world didn’t know it needed. He stood tall, over six feet, and had a lavish style that made him an unmistakable figure at fashion shows and events. Talley was a role model for many Black designers, stylists, artists, writers, and other Black LGBTQ+ creatives. He sharpened his sense of style as he established himself in Paris and New York. He was known for his use of bright colors, flashy accessories, and lengthy capes. His style was heavily influenced by the Black church he grew up attending in the racially segregated town of Durham, North Carolina. The "Sunday bests" outfits were opulent in the eyes of young Talley. He would later incorporate these early influences into the style for which he became known.
His essence held power; he sat in the first row at fashion shows when there were no other Black men in the same position. His presence was a message to the fashion industry and the world that Black bodies deserve to have a seat at the table. The Chiffon Trenches author was described as the man that would make a seat at the table if there otherwise wasn't one.
It was Talley's persistence that led Campbell to become the first Black woman on the cover of Vogue. When he was the stylist to former First Lady Michelle Obama, he introduced her to emerging Taiwanese-Canadian designer Jason Wu, who would later design her inauguration gown. Talley even made room for people of color at his own job. British Vogue's first Black editor-in-chief Edward Enninful has spoken openly about how Talley's career and mentorship paved the way for him to reach his level of success.
Talley's impact was not only felt by the fashion industry. He was a true influencer—a culturally inclusive, fashion icon.
