Are You Applying Hyaluronic Acid Wrong?
This hydrating skincare ingredient is essential in your moisturizing routine, but how you use it can impact its effectiveness.
Commonly found in skincare products ranging from serums to sheet masks, hyaluronic acid may be one of the most mentioned skincare buzzwords to date. Beloved by skincare aficionados and dermatologists alike, this skincare ingredient offers benefits far beyond hydration. L’OFFICIEL breaks down everything there is to know about this powerhouse ingredient and how to properly use it in your skincare regimen.
What is HA?
Hyaluronic acid, or HA, is a naturally occurring sugar found in our skin, eyes, and joints. Acting as a humectant for skincare, hyaluronic acid is capable of holding over a thousand times its weight in water and preventing moisture loss. The molecule helps water bind to collagen and traps it in the skin, giving the skin a more dewy and plump appearance.
Why is it important?
Similar to collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid decreases as we age, resulting in the loss of skin volume and hydration. Harsh weather, certain skincare products, and underlying conditions also contribute to water escaping from our protective skin barrier. To prevent this and lock in moisture from the environment, incorporating hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid into our everyday skincare regimen is vital in protecting the skin’s natural barrier. Likewise, eating a balanced diet with vegetables and antioxidants can also protect the skin from inflammation and prevent the loss of natural hyaluronic acid.
How to Use HA in Your Regimen
Hyaluronic acid comes in a variety of topical skincare products such as creams or moisturizers, serums, and sheet masks. While there are a plethora of hyaluronic acid options circulating the market, it’s important to note that hyaluronic acid comes in varying molecular concentrations. Larger HA molecules are the best at binding with water and hydrating the skin, but it isn’t able to penetrate the skin as easily as smaller HA molecules, which cannot bind to water to as well. Therefore, dermatologist Kristina Liu recommends finding a product that contains a combination of varying HA molecules for maximum surface hydration.
Unlike Vitamin C and niacinamide, hyaluronic acid is an easy-going ingredient and pairs well with retinol, vitamins, and other acids. This ingredient is able to tolerate all skin types and is safe to use during pregnancy. However, keep in mind that hyaluronic acid only offers surface-level hydration, not deep hydration. Because of this, the point at which you apply hyaluronic acid in your routine can greatly effect its efficacy.
Hyaluronic acid is best used under a cream or moisturizer to trap in the water-binding effects of the acid. The molecule needs water in order for it to activate. Without any moisture on the surface of your skin (or from the air), the molecule will pull water deep from within the skin instead, leading to dehydration. To prevent this, make sure to apply the hyaluronic acid serum on damp skin and immediately top it off with your usual moisturizer or cream.
They also come in injectable form.
Deviating from the skincare talk, hyaluronic acid comes in an injectable form as well. HA fillers are typically used for cosmetic purposes to combat the visible signs of aging or add structure to the face. Once injected into the skin, the gel-like consistency attracts water to generate additional volume. While it’s not recommended to those who are pregnant, make sure to talk with a professional dermatologist before proceeding with your appointment.
