Claudia Schiffer Captivates with Curatorial Debut of ‘90s Fashion Photography
The fashion industry insider speaks with L’OFFICIEL about the unforgettable era and what she has learned along her personal journey of style.
Renowned supermodel Claudia Schiffer takes an in-depth view of ‘90s fashion photography through the lens of her own personal story. In her first turn as a curator, Schiffer’s Captivate! Fashion Photography from the 1990s opens tomorrow at Germany’s Kunstpalast Düsseldorf—fittingly, the very city where Schiffer was discovered and launched her modeling career more than three decades ago.
Featuring images from Karl Lagerfeld, Herb Ritts, and Juergen Teller, the exhibition offers behind-the-scenes access to the fashion shows and parties that defined the decade. With more than 150 photos, prints, Polaroids, and magazine pictorials on display, the showcase brings together major works with previously unseen material to recreate the feel of this unique time in fashion history. “Where the 1980s was defined by perfectionist high glamour, the ‘90s was about energy, reality, and personality,” Schiffer tells L’OFFICIEL. “The 1990s was an extraordinary period, which witnessed the rise of a culture of style, the birth of the supermodel, and fearless creativity.”
Schiffer envisioned the exhibition from carefully selected ‘90s photographs—oft depicting her alongside fellow Supers Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista. Moving images, music, and memorabilia of the times create a wholly immersive experience and give light to the true magic of the ‘90s. “There was an incredible merging of fields across fashion, music, art, and entertainment and that made the era dynamic, exciting—the impossible became possible,” explains Schiffer. “In photography, there was a vast range of styles spanning the epic black-and-white romance of Peter Lindbergh, the sexy freedom of Ellen Von Unwerth to British-based David Sims, Corinne Day, and Mario Sorrenti in New York, who championed imperfection, the everyday, and coined what became known as ‘dirty realism.' I really wanted Captivate! to capture the visual experimentation and freedom of expression."
In fact, the model herself is an example of boundless creativity. Born in Rheinberg, Germany in 1970, Schiffer had intended to follow in her father’s footsteps as a lawyer until she was discovered by a model agent at Dusseldorf’s Checker's nightclub in 1987. In the decades since, her Brigitte Bardot-esque looks have become a mainstay in fashion from her evocative Guess ad campaigns to Schiffer’s regular presence on the runways of major fashion houses such as Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Balmain, and Chanel. Across her career, she has set new records globally with appearances on more than 1,000 magazine covers—including three on L’OFFICIEL. Today, she continues modeling with expanded pursuits in business, acting, design, and philanthropy.
Gleaning from Schiffer's personal experiences, Captivate! also shows how ‘90s modeling stars shattered glass ceilings and shifted broader views of them as businesswomen, far beyond their standout looks. “As supermodels, we became symbols of self-made success in an era that championed female ambition and that was also fueled by sex, power, and glamour," recalls Schiffer. “As ‘Supers,’ we were seen as individuals. Today, the idea that a personality or individual can transcend the brands they work with is accepted, but back then, it was very new.”
In fact, one of the show’s key reveals is how the ‘90s provides a strong foundation for many of today’s progressive approaches to style. “The 1990s was a watershed period that upturned ideals of beauty and fashion. Campaigns became a valued part of visual culture and fashion photography was an ‘idealizing vision’ and a new, democratic art form,” recollects Schiffer. “And the fashion! Wearing a Chanel jacket with vintage jeans, body con Alaïa dresses and sneakers, Marc Jacobs’ grunge, or a Helmut Lang suit—it was a high/low mix that was individual, fun, and cool. Above all, there was innovation and experimentation. That’s hard to beat and it really resonates with now when so many young creatives are collaborating and doing things—building from the ground up.”
Captivate! Fashion Photography from the 1990s will be on view at the Kunstpalast Düsseldorf from September 15, 2021 to January 9, 2022.
