Erdem's Fall/Winter 2024 Collection Pays Tribute to Maria Callas

Erdem Moralioglu's Fall/Winter 2024 collection was presented in the British Museum, more specifically in the room displaying the Parthenon statues sculpted by the architect Phidias. In a collection inspired by Maria Callas and her 1953 performance of Medea, the designer utilized silk and draping techniques to capture the essence and femininity of the famed opera singer. These efforts are highlighted by the delicate layering, draping, and romantic floral prints present in the series of garments.

The models paraded the looks to a soundtrack that included samples of Callas's work, showing off the majestic shawl dresses, coats with trains, wool fur coats, sheer ruffled dresses, and jackets with extra-large lapels that redefine the rectangular silhouette. Paired with jeweled shoes, a trademark of Erdem, pieces with marabou flutters caress the ground, making for a graceful tribute to the intrepid opera legend.

The floral and pictorial prints referenced Piero Tosi's costume designs for the 1969 film Medea by Pier Paolo Pasolini. The fine embroidery, the long leather gloves, and the golden tulip-shaped brooches and jewels made for a bold and theatrical celebration of the feminine figure and a woman who has left a mark in artistic history.