Shwetambari Celebrates Indian Savoir-Faire Through Artisanal Collaboration
Highlighting India's rich karigaree tradition, the eponymous brand Shwetambari works closely with Indian artisans across the subcontinent who specialize in distinct heritage techniques.
Indian fashion is having a moment. From Dior's Pre-Fall 2023 show in Mumbai celebrating Indian artistry (while working alongside the Chanakya School of Craft) to the newly opened India in Fashion exhibit at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre, there's been a noticeable global appreciation for Indian craftsmanship and artistry. But for artists such as Shwetambari Mody, designer and founder of her own eponymous label, celebrating Indian craftsmanship has always been at the forefront of her mind — long before this industry shift.
At the root of Shwetambari is a deep ethos of "celebrating the very best of India" through close collaboration with Indian artisans across the subcontinent. To Mody, Indian craftsmanship means "heritage [and] family — it's something that I'm extremely proud of."
Though she is a Mumbai native — with family originally from Gujarat — Mody sees this collaborative journey working with Indian artisans and growing Shwetambari as a rediscovery of her roots. "As I am in the process of creating, I am learning that in India, there are various regions known for the craftsmanship unique to that region. Through those experiences, I am rediscovering my roots. So that is what I'm taking from this whole experience," she expresses.
Mody has always held an outright appreciation for Indian clothing, but it was her time studying in Paris at ESSEC Business School obtaining an MBA in Luxury Brand Management where she truly found the art of savoir-faire. From taking trips to Lesage to studying elaborate garment-making techniques done the French way, Mody cultivated an interest in the art of craft, though she thought about how savoir-faire exists in other parts of the world.
"I started thinking to myself that, in India, we have it too, which is karigaree, and I would like to [further] discover Indian craftsmanship [karigaree] because I hadn't discovered that," she explains. "So while I was working for other brands, this was always at the back of my head — where if I do start something one day, it will be a collaboration between the artists and me."
Fast forward to the launch of Shwetambari, and the passion to work together with Indian artisans has evolved from a mere idea to a close familial relationship. Mody emphasizes that every part of the creative process is done in tandem — a true collaboration. "A marriage of ideas," if you will.
"When collaborating with other artists, one of the benefits to giving them creative freedom is that it leads to a sense of ownership and responsibility in their work," she explains. "If I am too rigid with my ideas and insist on only my vision, they may not feel invested in the project. I prefer to present my concept and then ask for their input and interpretation. This allows for a fruitful collaboration between our unique artistic backgrounds and techniques."
The garments are undeniably exquisite — crafted with the utmost care and attention to detail. Each piece is produced with the best fabrics, from silks to cashmere, constructed with a fluidity that upholds the sought-out ease and comfortability Shwetambari provides. The construction of the apparel speaks for itself, as not a second is sacrificed at the expense of the craftsmanship. The Devi Top, for example, is a crop top that took 80 hours to make.
"My team said, 'You're crazy,'" she laughs. "But this is the kind of craftsmanship we're talking about."
The top in question stems from a sea shell sketch Mody doodled on a flight from New York to Mumbai. Once she got to India, the collaborative process was in full swing: "I said, 'Ok, how do we translate that into embroidery?' And I just showed it to Sooraj, who is one of our main artisans, and he suggested that we can try and embroider this." From there, the two created an entire collection.
She continues, "Admittedly, not everything we try ends up working out, but that is all a part of the creative process. We pride ourselves on devoting ample time to research and development, striving to create a design language that resonates with both cultures. That to me is the beauty of being a designer."
Having so many years of industry experience, many would argue that you now know it all, that there's nothing else to learn — Mody says otherwise. The collaboration has proved to be a continuous learning experience, especially as Mody becomes acquainted with the countless different techniques, such as the Aari method which "uses a fixed needle that may have a small hook to grab the yarn and create a better contour so that the design is a bit more delicate," and the Zardosi method which "uses simple hand needles and metallic thread."
Each season a new technique is spotlighted, allowing more artists to be discovered across different parts of India. As Mody explains, "I will suggest that this season we'll do the beaded embroidery along with a macrame cape. Now, what's interesting here is that the person that makes the beaded embroidery and makes the macrame is totally different because they're totally different techniques and it's a completely unique methodology."
The result of this shared knowledge and interest in acquiring new skills to explore? A close familial bond rooted in respect for one another and acknowledgment of the important part each individual plays throughout the creative process.
"They learn from each other. We learn from them. So we have become this small family," Mody says.
Ultimately as Indian savoir-faire continues to be celebrated, Mody hopes the world recognizes the rich history and artistry behind it: "I want people to look at [Indian craftsmanship] and think of heritage and quality. As you know, India has an ancient history in embroidery and clothing. I want people to experience that. And look, India has changed a lot as a whole, not only in the fashion world but also on a global platform. I am very proud to see where it is today. I want it to continue and become synonymous with my country, and I want the world to experience that."
