The Surprising Origins of the Viral Tabi Shoe
The tabi may be known for its presence on Margiela runways and as a fashion insider fixture, whether worn by Chloë Sevigny or new-wave infuelncers in recent years. But, its storied history reaches back several centuries.
Since its debut on Martin Margiela's catwalk in 1988, the shoe has become one of fashion’s most provocative and enduring footwear designs. But the story of the Tabi does not start with the Belgian designer. To the surprise of many, its origins are rooted in 15th-century Japan where the split-toe silhouette was first introduced as a sock.
The original tabi socks, dating back to 15th-century Japan, were crafted to be worn with traditional footwear like zōri (flat sandals) and geta (raised wooden clogs). The socks were initially reserved for the upper classes, and they were often dyed based on class. Upper-class wearers usually sported purple while those below often wore blue. Over time, the use of tabi socks began to spread, and acceptable colors for the socks began to grow. They became widely available in neutral colors like white for formal occasions and black for everyday use. The unique design eventually transcended its cultural roots, becoming a bold statement in modern fashion and solidifying its place as an icon of innovation.
As Japan modernized during its Meiji Era, between 1868-1912, the traditional tabi design began to evolve alongside footwear preferences. This is where Western-style boots and shoes are introduced, leading to the development of jika-tabi, a rubber-soled iteration of the split-toe sock. This innovation seamlessly blended the traditional tabi-socks with more contemporary footwear, showing the adaptability of the hoof-like design.
Today, the tabi split-toe design has moved past being defined by its functionality. Margiela debuted his reinterpretation of the Tabi shoe in 1988, when the designer revealed the show on his inspired silhouette. It was featured on the brand’s very first runway show for its Spring/Summer 1989 collection, which took place in Paris. Thanks to the Belgian designer, the tabi has transcended its utilitarian roots to become a bold fashion statement–one that bridges centuries of tradition with the cutting edge of modern design.
Recent trends have also boosted the silhouette's appeal. What started as a sock shape is now available in many iterations from split-toe thigh-high boots to sneakers, flats, and heels. Each interpretation continues to challenge traditional notions of footwear, solidifying the Tabi as a hallmark of Margiela’s avant-garde legacy and influence on broader trends. Other brands have launched their own shoe of the same shape, like Nike's Air Rift or Sou Sou's kicks.
Keep scrolling to see archival runway looks showcasing Maison Margiela’s interpretation of the historical Tabi split-toe design.
