Thom Browne's Most Outrageous Runway Looks of All Time
Thom Browne has proven that whimsicality and wearability are not mutually exclusive, creating some of the best and most outrageous runway looks in the fashion history books.
Known for all things fantasy, outlandish, and pure creativity, Thom Browne has truly created a design world like none other. Especially in the American market, where commercialism runs rampant, Browne has torn down the idea that wearability cannot have whimsicality. With voluminous, deconstructed silhouettes merged with impeccable tailoring, the grandeur of it all is far from the line of gimmicky, a balance that even the most experienced designers can have difficulty mastering.
Browne's immersive storytelling takes shape beyond the clothes and onto the runway sets themselves, holding nothing back in transporting the audience to a completely different realm through theatrical productions. Whether it be a desolate planet, Noah's Ark, a dreamscape, or a whimsical boardwalk, the designer is a master of ensuring no two seasons are the same, constantly keeping fashion insiders excited for the unexpected.
All that said, it should then come as no surprise that Thom Browne has risen the fashion ladder and made its couture debut for the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 season. In a way, being welcomed into such an exclusive group was nothing less than inevitable, as his ready-to-wear collections can be easily translated as couture already.
The prolific designer — who currently sits as the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers in America (CFDA) — has changed expectations on what wearability means and how to have fun with fashion. Following Browne's continuous imprint in the fashion world, L'OFFICIEL looks back at Thom Browne's most outrageous runway moments to date.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013
The New York Public Library has quite a history with fashion, it's grand space lending itself as a convenient runway set. Thom Browne's Spring/Summer 2013 collection takes it a step further, turning the academic setting into a conceptualized funfair. The idea behind his madness was inspired by German artist Oskar Schlemmer, who was known for his works that explored movement and rhythm. As if the models were living sculptures, the garments shaped the female form through various playful silhouettes.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014
Referencing past decades is nothing uncommon in fashion, whether it's the '40s, '70s, or '90s. The Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014 goes back even further than most, inspired by the 1500s. With all-white faces painted, madhouse hair, and red lipstick, it was as if the Queen of Hearts was living in an insane asylum. High collars, protruding hips, and corseted waists exaggerated the female shape. It was edgier than most Thom Browne productions fashion lovers came to know, though there was still a touch of fun, maintaining Browne's signature quirkiness.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2015
Always one to outdo himself, Browne's Spring/Summer 2015 collection was completely unexpected (not that any show he does can really be considered "predictable"). For this collection, the usual foray of neutrals, red, white, and blue colors took a back seat and was replaced with a myriad of bold hues. It was a masterful lesson on moderation and excess, exuding opulence in a straightforward fashion.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2018
For many, this look was first introduced to them thanks to Doja Cat who sported the now-dubbed "worm dress" at the 2021 MTV Video Music Awards. The collection as a whole was a dreamscape, as models reminiscent of otherwordly creatures tranced around in the dream. While any Thom Browne show can be considered a fantasy, the Spring/Summer 2018 collection was truly a vision — a dream that could happily go on for eternity.
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2018
Though it was a ready-to-wear collection, this show could have easily been considered couture with its inventive silhouettes and imaginative proportions. The show itself spoke to Browne's love for the female form, though as a master of clever juxtaposition, any feminine shapes were offset by his signature tailoring.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2019
Though taken place in the Tennis Club de Paris, the Spring/Summer 2019 show was more of a day at the beach, as the set was transformed into a high-end boardwalk. Nautical themes of sailboat prints, crustacean patterns, fruit-shaped headpieces, bikinis atop sheer catsuits, and hand-beaded starfish all gave the collection a sense of oceanic whimsy.
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2020
The winter wonderland set for the Fall/Winter 2020 collection gave Narnia a run for its money. The show's concept was a reinterpreted take on Noah's Ark, as a pack of fanciful animals in heels opened the show. Then two by two, the runway (or "ark") filled, as models walked down in pairs in identical outfits.
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2022
Perhaps one of Browne's most playful collections to date, through unexpected proportions, 500 teddy bears, and bold hues of yellow, orange, and green scattered among the typical collegiate shades, the Fall/Winter 2022 show connected with our inner child. Even down to the accessories were youthful references, such as paper dolls, puzzle pieces, and a Rubik's cube.
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2023
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection was inspired by The Little Prince, bringing back memories of the escapism found in childlike wonder. Every look was outrageous, respectively, even without the maximal styling, but still had plenty of wearable elements. Column dresses, striped coats, fitted midi skirts, and corseted maxi dresses stood out, like alienesque office attire.
Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023
For a debut couture collection, the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 show surpassed the already high bar. Set in the grand Opera Garnier in Paris, amidst a 300-strong audience were hundreds of cutout cardboard audience members. The brand's signature white, red, and blue colors made an appearance, with exaggerated silhouettes (even more so than usual) ushering in a clear image of fashion for the future.