Jonathan Anderson Does Normcore His Way for Loewe Spring/Summer 2024
With a fun play on proportions and an unexpected eye on detailing, the Loewe show unveils a lineup of garments fitting for the everyday.
It's been a decade since Jonathan Anderson was named creative director of Loewe, and there's no question that since his time at the helm, he's been able to bring life back to the once sleepy House — to the point that Loewe topped the Lyst Index's list of hottest brands for the first time this July. Quirky and humorous with a nod to surrealism, Anderson never fails to deliver a lineup of commercially successful looks with an unexpected twist.
Taking place at the Château de Vincennes just outside the Paris city limits, Loewe's Spring/Summer 2024 collection continues this theme. The sense of playfulness isn't necessarily new, though it's certainly much subtler than seasons past when models walked in deflated balloon shoes and pixelated mini-dresses. This time, the garments play with the mind by taking everyday clothing items and adding an element of surprise through the silhouette and detailing.
Chunky knit sweaters with no arm holes; higher than usual high-waist pants, knee-length shorts held together not by a belt but with a large pin; blazers with off-centered pockets; side of trenchcoats merging into handbags—the collection zooms in on the details and alters proportions, offering a cheeky take on normcore aesthetics.
The Loewe show strips back and keeps the attention focused on the outline, both in a literal sense (such as the sheer, collared, maxi dresses) and conceptual sense (looking at the asymmetrical, tiered mini skirts). The lineup follows a theme present throughout the last few weeks, and that's brands focusing less on gimmicks and more on clothes you can wear. Commercial value and newness can work in harmony—it's not an easy thing to master, but it's not impossible to find as proven by Anderson time and time again.
As a brand known for its leatherwork and accessories, the bags were not to be missed, noticeably forward in terms of shape but also appropriate to wear for the everyday — matching the theme of the clothes.