Charles James' Trademark Looks

English-American designer Charles James was one of the most influential designers amongst society's elite during the 20th century. Born in Surrey, England, James attended a prestigious private school where he met novelist Evelyn Waugh and photographer Cecil Beaton, both of whom became major inspirations for the couturier. After a brief stint studying in Bordeaux, France, James relocated to Chicago, Illinois where he opened a millinery shop at the age of 19.

After establishing himself in the United States, James would later move to London where he would be cemented as one of fashion's leading designers. James' shop in Mayfair—a section of London's West End—rapidly became a favorite location of nobility, society women, and aristocrats. While working in London, James continued to dress clients in both New York and Paris due to his newly found success and fashionable profile. 

In terms of silhouette, James' sculptural creations were unmatched. Known for flowing gowns and eveningwear, the designer created a sartorial escape that shaped and complemented the female form. James was also beloved and lauded by his counterparts such as Salvador Dali and Cristóbal Balenciaga, the latter of whom said the designer was "the only one in the world who has raised dressmaking from an applied art to a pure art.

Although the designer's name may not be as widely known as his contemporaries, James' legacy is firmly cemented into the lexicon of modern fashion. Current names like Zac Posen and Maria Grazia Chiuri often reference the designer and James' iconic silhouettes have been reinterpreted time and time again. In 2014, the Metropolitan Museum of Art hosted an exhibit and gala titled Charles James: Beyond Fashion that celebrated the designer's legacy.

On James' birthday, L'OFFICIEL looks back on the designer's signature silhouettes that changed the course of fashion. 

Aptly named for its budding, cocoon-like shape, the butterfly dress was a stunning signature of Charles James. Inspired by Victorian-era silhouettes, the gown sported a sculpted bodice and flowing bustle skirt that effortlessly moved with the wearer. The dress' size was remarkable, too—weighing in at over 18 pounds and using 25 yards of tulle.

Again referencing Victorian silhouettes, James often incorporated billowing bustle skirts into the shapes of his elaborate gowns. Marked by a padded silhouette, the bustle skirt allows for movement and prevents the garment from dragging. Above, a model sports a fantastical bustle gown at a Charles James fashion show.

Worn by the likes of Babe Paley and Baba Beaton, the Swan Gown was a stunning, flowing masterpiece. The garment featured a sculpted bodice that trailed into an elongated train that resembled the delicate feathers of a swan.

Arguably the designer's most famous silhouette, the Four Leaf Clover gown was a beautiful display of craftsmanship and tailoring expertise. First worn by Austine McDonell Hearst, the gown featured a form-fitting bodice and a sprawling skirt that resembled the appearance of a clover.

The English-American designer's skirt suits and separates were a perennial hit amongst society's elite. With billowing sleeves and technical fabrication, James' suits were an interesting mix of casual touchpoints and a signature savoir-faire.

One of the earliest iterations of the modern puffer jacket, James created a series of padded and geometric outerwear. Starting in the late 1930s, the designer's experiments with silhouette and shape would continue into more experimental outerwear pieces and also eveningwear later on in his career.

Often crafted out of satin strands, multi-color capes were a frequent favorite for James. Permitting movement and making for a picturesque fashion moment, the cape was often layered over billowing gowns and skirts by Charles James customers.